Baan Panburi Village is a garden of beach huts in Thong Nai Pan Noi bay, which is to the north-east of Thailand’s Koh Phangan Island in the South China Sea. I have stayed at Baan Panburi on two different occasions, once before the development of the Rasananda Phangan Island Resort next door, which purchased a lot of the Baan Panburi beachfront, and once after the development.
The first time I stayed I was with a group of friends in one of the beach front huts, that unfortunately don’t exist anymore, the beach, service and room rates were great, and that’s what motivated me to go back a second time. The replacement beach front accommodation from the luxury Rasanada resort does look very impressive, but above many peoples budget ranges.
I’m glad I had the chance to stay here when the beach front accommodation on Thong Nai Pan bay was still basic and rustic. If you look at the new resorts and hotels in Koh Phangan that are popping up, and with all the development, there’s not too many like the old Baan Panburi left.
The Old Baan Panburi Beach Front Huts
Just behind the Baan Panburi is a small village of grocery stores, internet cafes, travel agents and restaurants. These small outlets do come in handy, as Thong Nai Pan is around a one hours drive on dirt roads from the main Koh Phangan town of Haad Rin.
Around this small village you may come across somebody called ‘Mr. Handsome’, and he’s a real character. Mr Handsome is like the Richard Branson of Thong Nai Pan, he sells food at his ‘Handsome Sandwiches’ stall, fuel at his ‘Handsome Gasoline’ stall, there’s ‘Handsome Laundry’, the list of things he trades in is vast. All of Mr Handsome’s services are often highly recommended by many travelers who have crossed paths with him, you can even buy a Handsome T-Shirt.
Mr Handsome's Wife at Handsome Sandwiches
The second time I stayed, the Baan Panburi complex now sat between the Panviman Resort and the Rasananda, which are four and five stars, respectively. The beach front huts from the Baan Panburi were no longer there, having been replaced by some good looking luxury beach front units by Rasanada.
The accommodation at Baan Panburi is now essentially a series of beach huts, set in a nice garden, with paths leading around the complex to the seafront. Most of the huts are basic but good quality, with a fan, mosquito net, nice bathroom and a small porch, complete with a hammock.
There is a few premium huts, these are larger, closer to the beach and provide a higher level of comfort. Included in the larger huts is a better bathroom and air conditioning, the actual build of the more premium huts also seems more solid than the basic ones. Each unit here includes a handy foot washer outside, which is good for keeping your hut free of sand after you’ve been on the beach.
The large restaurant and bar area at Baan Panburi is located on the beach, and has been redesigned at the time Rasanada took over much of the beach front. The food here was always great the both times I stayed, with plenty of traditional Thai and western dishes available. Regular fresh seafood beach barbecues are a highlight of the Baan Panburi dining experience. The dining area is relaxed, and there is games such as ‘Jenga’ to play for guests to entertain themselves. I also highly recommend the restaurant down the beach at the Panviman resort, the food is sublime and the dining room is elevated, providing great views of the Thong Nai Pan Bay.
The Spectacular View from the Panviman Restaurant
Getting to Baan Panburi is quite a trek from where the boat drops you off, but it’s rewarding in the sense that you are far away from the noisy Full Moon Party revelers, and can relax in peace. Getting down to Haad Rin for the party is easy though, just ask ‘Mr. Handsome’ and he will sort you out with transport.
In closing, I can say that I would most definitely consider Baan Panburi as a place to stay the next time I visit Koh Phangan. The rustic but high quality beach huts are just me kind of accommodation, the price is great value, and it’s the perfect place to nurse a Full Moon Party hangover.